The Perfect Bite

Die Back, Onion.

These onions, still in the soil at Potrero Nuevo Farm, are being tricked into storage mode.  Due to growing conditions and the cool weather in Half Moon Bay, onions need to be coerced into storage mode for the duration of the winter months ahead.  In order to hurry the onions into drying out and turning their skins papery, the stalks are bent sideways. This small push signals the nutrients to move from the leaves to the bulb.  This term is called, DYING BACK.  Bending onion stalks was just one of the ways I participated on the farm during my stay in August.  Other chores included thinning rows of carrots, harvesting lemon cucumbers and milking Fresca and Squirt, the resident goats.  Cooking and eating on the farm is a dream since the kitchen has a huge garage door that overlooks a half acre garden, where the food you are eating was in the soil just minutes before and the goats are bleating from the hills behind.

-CY

Blackberry Paradise

Oregon is overrun with berries, which is similar to how I imagine paradise.  Blackberry vines line the rivers and roads, the glistening little fruits calling out to be picked as you pass by.  Farmers’ markets are beautified by brightly colored stands selling flats of strawberries, blueberries and blackberries.  It is just as easy to buy a pint as it is to pick flat on a summer afternoon while fishing the Willamette.  The picking season is short so smart cooks find ways to enjoy the fruit in the moment as well as preserve them for the long berry-less months ahead.

Ideas for how to play around with blackberries in the kitchen:

• Fold into Creme Chantilly: First place berries in a bowl and smash with fork.  Add sugar to sweeten to taste.  Next whip heavy cream with confectioners' sugar, then fold in smashed berries.  Use this instead of icing inside a layer cake, spread on a flat sponge cake before rolling into a log, or fill a blind baked tart shell with whole berries as garnish.

• Showcase berries in fools, crisps, pies, trifles, ice cream, cocktails, with shortcake, etc.

• Make Jams and Jellies

• Make your own liquor, like they do in the French countryside

• To freeze berries, first spread out on a flat tray and freeze.  Then transfer frozen berries to a plastic bag.  Use in a variety of cooking applications.

-CY

Summer Flavors Captured

 

Dear Readers,

I have much to share with you.  This summer has been a whirlwind.  To begin, Boston was saturated with six straight weeks of rain in June and July.  When the sun finally decided to shine and the restaurant patios opened, my life was taken over by packing, saying goodbye to friends, leaving my great job at Sofra and relocating.  Fortunately moving wasn’t all work.  I was able to turn the end of summer into a series of trips on both coasts of the US.  I took a bakery tour of San Francisco, stayed at Potrero Nuevo farm in Half Moon Bay, fished the Willamette river in Oregon, watched my mother prepare Polish galumpkis, cooked with friends, ate well and relaxed.  I am now settling down in Tennessee and have a lot of blogging to do.  As I organize photos and recipes of all things delicious from these travels, I look forward to sharing them with you.  May this help to keep the fresh flavors of summer captured in our minds even as the leaves begin to change.

Christy

Fish Tales

This summer has been a collection of trips, many involving eating out of gardens and nearby waterways.  A fourth of July trip down south involved flounder fishing in the Assateague Channel.  Trout fishing on a stream in southern Pennsylvania proved successful.  And finally a trip to Oregon prompted steelhead trout fishing on the Willamette River. 

The flounder was cooked very simply so that the delicate flavor and delicate flesh would be preserved.  The raw fillets were brushed with melted butter, seasoned and sprinkled with parsley and a squeeze of lemon.  They were baked just until the flesh firmed.  It is easy to overcook this fish, but not necessary.  To test doneness, press your finger on the top of the fillet.  If it springs back and feels firm, it is done.

Whole rainbow trout was cooked over an open flame.  Generally, I apply the same rule of thumb with other mild fleshed fish: delicate flesh likes delicate flavor.  Here the trout was cooked with similar seasonings, only whole and over a flame.   The foil pouch is a camper's answer to the French technique of “en papillote” where fish is baked in a parchment pocket with herbs and a splash of wine. 

The steelhead trout is a more robust and pink fleshed with a totally different flavor.  This fish, which may age up to 11 years and grow as big as 55 pounds, start in fresh water, go out to sea and later return to fresh water to spawn.  This steelhead was only 15 pounds when caught.  After cleaning, the sides were marinated overnight in a combination of soy sauce, white wine, herbs, salt, sugar, water, onion, garlic, black pepper.  Just before smoking, the fish was rinsed and air dried for one hour.  The sides flake into chunky pieces.  This fish is also great for grilling.

 

-CY

Pork: Sliced & Stacked

Cold sandwiches are a great way to satisfy hunger on hot summer nights.  These were made for an evening garden party in the city.  Stacked inside is a combination of spicy ingredients:  grain mustard, arugula, quick pickled shallots & cold garlic-studded pork loin.  The general spiciness pairs well with most picnic appropriate wines:  sparkling, rose, crisp whites and light reds.
-CY

Perfection Pie

Making pate brisee is not a chore in my kitchen; It is pure satisfaction.  The attraction for me is its versatility and the frisage, a final smear of fat and flour together with the palm of the hand which gives me control in a world of chaos.   I have an army of savory table tarts and sweet pies in my repertoire that all center around a flaky, salty, buttery crust.  And though I enjoy having half a dozen trusted doughs in mind for variation, I found the need to streamline one for travel and speed baking.  There are debates about how to make the best pate brisee- by hand, mixer or food processor; with frozen butter or with cold butter; ice water or cream; egg yolk or none.  I am going to dish it all out to you with my method and trusted ratio for the perfect crust. 

This method requires nothing more than the ingredients and a rolling pin (or wine bottle, if desperate) to get your dough in the oven.  You can choose to use any machinery you like with any method of incorporating the fat and liquid that you prefer.  The ratio will work.   I enjoy doing it all by hand working in a bowl or on the counter top and use chilled water, straight from the brita in my fridge as the liquid.  Because I am so in love with salt, I use Maldon sea salt in the dough so that it is noticeable.  For a sweet variation, I add 1 T of sugar to the dry mixture and sprinkle coarse sanding sugar on top for texture and extra sweetness with salty crust.  

My Perfect Pate Brisee Ratio-

Yield- this is not enough for one pie.  You will want to double it for a bottom crust and a lattice top, as pictured.  But the ratio of one cup of flour to one stick of butter is unforgettable. 

1 Cup of AP flour

1 T Maldon Sea Salt

1 T sugar (FOR SWEET VARIATION ONLY)

1 Stick of Salted Butter (4 oz)

2-4 T cold water

Method:

1. Combine the flour, salt and sugar (if using) in a bowl.

2. Cut the chilled butter into small pieces and work into the flour with your hand.  Begin by rubbing the butter together with the flour and then smearing it together as the butter softens a bit.  Once the mixture is begins to clump slightly and the butter is no longer chunky add enough water so that the dough will clump together when squeezed with your hand.

3. Turn the mixture out onto a counter to frisage- using the palm of your hand begin smearing it away from you to form the dough.  This will take some effort and is deeply satisfying.

4. Form the smeared dough pieces into a ball and chill for at least 15 minutes, though 30 is best, before rolling out for any variety of tarts or pies. 

-CY

Standing Ovation

I bought this IE-DE-CHEF brand chicken roaster on a whim.  The biggest draw for me, besides the $5 price tag, was the thought of crispy skin on the underside of the bird as well as the skin on the breasts and legs.  I have used the gadget three times in four weeks because I love it.  The two inverted U shaped wires take up the majority of the cavity, so it is not possible to add flavor by stuffing onions or lemons inside.  Twice I tucked fresh bay leaves and thick lemon slices under the breast skin and seasoned the cavity and outer skin liberally with coarse salt and pepper .  The other time I rubbed the skin and cavity with a paprika and garlic rub.  Both methods took almost not time to get in the oven and needed little attention while cooking.  Set up and clean up were made easy because there is no need to truss the legs by tying them together and the drip pan collects 90% of the fat and juices that trickle out of the bird.  Be sure to place a baking sheet with sides under the drip pan to collect the spill-over.  

There are people standing up for a cause more noble than crispy skin on the oysters of an organic chicken.  Outstanding in the Field is a  good spirited company run by road tripper Jim Denevan and his crew who tour the country in a bus.  They stop to serve dinners at long, community tables in the fields where the food they are serving has been grown and  honor those who contributed to the menu.  Check out their guest chefs and  locations across America, then make a reservation here.  

-CY

Thank you NPR

I recently became a fan of dried chick peas, trading in years  of convenience found in their canned counterpart.  Then I heard a cooking interview with Jose Andres on NPR.  The challenge was to create a meal for four under ten dollars.  His recipe included using stale bread, lots of olive oil, fried garlic and a hefty amount of paprika, saffron and cumin in addition to chick peas and spinach.  The result is a  meatless stew with layers of flavor that is as satisfying as a beef brisket.  Add a fried egg on top- you won't regret it.  If you become as enamored as I am, you too will be soaking chick peas for a whole repertoire of meals. 

-CY

March Madness: TOMATO COBBLER

 

Out of sheer desire to avoid root vegetables in March, I came up with a variation on my favorite summer tomato cobbler.  The use of canned and sun dried tomatoes makes this dish ethical when the fruit is out of season.  Try making multiple at the same time:  a large one to share for an easy Sunday dinner and individual portions in ramekins to bake off later in the week.   It is the perfect side for a roasted chicken.   Be sure to save the tomato juice for braises or soups.  Not all tomatoes are created equal; It is really important to use a flavorful, high quality canned tomato like San Marzano.

 

            Ingredients:

            2 leeks, cleaned and thickly sliced on a bias                    

            2 T butter

            2 cans of high quality chopped tomatoes, well drained

            1 ½ C golden sun dried tomatoes thinly sliced

            Handful of chopped basil

            Salt and pepper

                                                                                         

            Gruyere crust from tomato cobbler link above

            Egg wash

 

Method:

1. Make crust and allow time for it to rest. Roll it out and rest again.   

2. In a deep pan melt butter and sweat leeks just until they begin to soften.   Add both types of tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. 

3. Once the sun dried tomatoes begin to plump remove the mixture from heat.  Stir in basil.

4. Transfer tomato and leek mixture to buttered baking dishes. 

5. Cover the filling with the Gruyere crust.  Next brush with an egg wash. 

6. Bake at 350 F until the crust is browned and filling is bubbling around the edges. 

 

-CY

Virginia is for Crab Lovers

On summer vacation, netting is my life.  The stunning blue crab population in the Chesapeake is once again healthy.  Luring dozens of crabs aboard a wooden boat was almost a cardio sport.  Two members of our boat crew were frantically scooping up to three crabs off each twine wrapped chicken thigh while the other three crabbers slowly raised the meat up from the muddy bottom.  The males, Jimmies, were biting like mad.  The mature females, Sooks, were instinctively resting below since they are in a healthy reproduction cycle.

I always prepare blue crabs by steaming them them with Old Bay.  If you don’t have the patience to sit around for a few hours with dirty hands and pick crabs, try another recipe.  Marinate chicken legs in old bay, sliced lemons, chopped onions, parsley and a drizzle of olive oil.  Then grill.  Or, prepare a shrimp, corn and kielbasa  boil.  Regardless, you'll want to have some chilled beverages on hand to quench your thirst.

  -CY

Appetite for America

From Boston to Santa Cruz, we searched out the truest foods in America on a twenty-day drive.
Our best meals out were encouraged by people we met along the way.  Coop’s in New Orleans served up plump fried oysters and crawfish, not to mention Abitas- the local brew.  Jim Neely’s Interstate BBQ put Memphis on our radar.  Plantain breakfast followed by coffee at Joe’s and Amy’s ice cream in Austin was Suzie’s perfect meal.  As a chef, I enjoyed earning room and board by cooking dinner for friends along the way and taking time to sit down together.

Our biggest challenge was finding food worth supporting.  The dilemma forced us to eat dozens of peanut butter, honey and maldon salt sandwiches, pictured above.  It also reinforced our dream plan of building a farm education and cooking center on the east coast.  For a lot of America, food sources are scary and we see a need for change.  Fresh food doesn’t just happen and spring water should not make your teeth ache.  Organic produce is largely unavailable and farmers markets are hard to find.  Many grocery stores have never stocked natural meats, let alone organic. Large cities, Austin for example, were the most progressive with budding small-scale food businesses.  Now, rural America needs to get on board.

We love the landscape of America.  We hope to see it dotted with more worthy farms and supported farmers.  Suzie is learning how to do just that at the sustainable farming program offered at UC Santa Cruz.  I can’t wait to see her grow.

-CLY

Fillet a Fish

  On a recent trip to Alaska, our cousin Eddie visited  the number one fishing port in the nation during Surimi, Pollock and Pacific Grey Cod season.  He reports that the fresh fish are filleted by the boatload,  cleaned by a gang of workers, as it's offloaded.  In a gigantic kitchen, next to the boat, the goods are prepared and packaged for delivery around the world.  The schools of fish attract mascots like hovering bald eagles and hungry sea lions who add to the beauty of the Aleutian Island chain.  I can only imagine how bone chilling it must be to clean fish in negative twenty degrees.  -ER/CY

Many Farms

"Culture evolves when there's enough food available that people can chew their meals slowly and ruminate on what life means."  Amen, Andy Griffin. Until there's enough real food available to all, this quote seems as much a statement about basic human rights as a call for more local farmers. And so I find myself stepping off the city grid and into a life in agriculture. 

As I look around for existing models to learn from, I've discovered some very cool projects right here in New England:  The Food Project, Land's Sake, The Big Ox Farm, Gaining Ground, The Farm School, Shelburne Farms and Green Meadow Farms, among others.  A couple weeks ago I met Ryan Voiland from Red Fire Farm.  He spoke about Equal Exchange, his annual Tomato Trot/Heirloom Festival and how he cover crops by growing clover under napa cabbage, both at the same time. Then he handed out his late harvest carrots, which were surprisingly sweet thanks to early   snowfall that insulated, rather than froze them to death. Later, I attended an MIT lecture about a meat CSA at Chestnut Farms. The husband/wife team brought a three-day old piglet and explained the school bus they've converted into a mobile chicken coop. Sitting in that classroom, listening to ideas about biodiesel from animal waste, an araucana chicken laid a skyblue egg into a boy's hand!  That brave hen hadn't produced any eggs in over a year. So many farms, so many miracles.

Links to all of these inspiring farmers are on the sideboard, left, along with pop-up descriptions if you let the cursor hover over the name.  Andy Griffin grows organically at Mariquita Farm in California, and his Ladybug Letter is awesome. If you like soil, culture, insight and "perspective [that] has grown 'organically' out of lived experience on the farm" without the "nostalgia, regrets or corporate BS," sign up to start receiving!  His latest brought together an unlikely cast of Jeffery Steingarten, Charles Darwin, Farmer McGregor and the Flopsy Bunnies. - sy

get satiated. get educated. get CASEUS’ated.

Pictured left, organic pecorino from the renowned Fratelli Sanna cheesemakers in Siena, Italy.

We were sad to see our good friend Jason pack up and leave Boston, but visiting Caseus, his new cheese shop and bistro in CT, makes us glad we let him go. I stopped by the New Haven store on a recent road trip, just in time for a late lunch of mixed greens and an onion tart on buttery pâte brisée. The man beside me was digging into steak frites with house mayo, and most of the menu takes advantage of the imported cheeses sold downstairs. There’s poutine, grilled cheese lined with jamon de Paris, raclette with roasted baby Yukons and a savory soufflé. Or skip the dairy altogether with a brazen frisée salad of bacon, hazelnuts and a poached egg.

Walking around the exposed brick espresso bar and the shop of imported oils, salumi, jams, salts, chocolates and cheese, you get a sense of the guy that actually dreamed it up and then built it with his own hands. We’ve known Jason as a cheesemonger, a baker, a BBQ master, an academic student of gastronomy and generally a hilarious individual who can charm the socks off your grandmother.  We know - Mommom still asks about him. On my visit, Jason was running around Caseus, offering tours of the cheese cave, asking for feedback on the charcuterie board, foaming milk for a latte and greeting every single person who walked through the door.  He is hands-on. And so are his cookbooks and food library, stacked around the store for anyone to browse. On the walls, you get more of his story and interests: a black & white of Jason’s family in their old New Haven deli, a copy of The Cheese Nun DVD on display above the bistro like a relic, and framed farm shots to remind patrons of the places where honest food like this comes from. 

If you’re looking for more from Caseus, you got it.  They’re all about “educating the palate,” as their website says.  Classes like “Beer Loves Cheese” or “Cheese and Poetry” or “Spanish One Tapas” are always on tap.  Check out Caseus.com for upcoming events.

Tuscany In Print

Spannocchia stars pictured clockwise: a Cinta Senese piglet, Michel the beekeeper, salami curing in the temperature and humidity controlled salumi locker.

Not since I interviewed with bon appétit magazine years ago have I hung around newsstands, waiting for the next issue to hit. February 2008 has finally arrived, at least in print, and flipping to the spread on The Tuscan Cure brought me the most excitement I’ve felt since leaving the featured Italian farm where I lived last fall. The writing is good – stories of the outdoor pizza oven, the rare Cinta Senese pigs I fed so often, Piero the butcher who taught me everything I know about making sopressata, and the impressive 13^th Century tower where Spannocchia’s story begins. But it is the photography that brings me back.  Ten glossy pages sandwiched between a gorgeous salumi plate and a typical courtyard dinner where guests, interns and farm staff broke bread at the same table. 

Cedric Angeles is the photographer behind the incredible pictures of pasta, vin santo grapes, and the many faces that make Spannocchia what it is. I remember his week-long assignment like it was yesterday – the way he got to know his subjects before ever framing a shot, then steadying a medium-format camera and clicking once, maybe twice. Cedric was everywhere that week –the chicken coop, the interns’ Tuscan cooking class, our beekeeping seminar, the prosciutto room and even up at dawn the day that Will, Riccio and I went to the slaughterhouse. 

February is bon appétit’s “green issue.” Spannocchia aside, there are plenty of incentives to go out and get yourself a copy: reasons to keep eating meat, Molly Wizenberg’s debut column and food info on Portland, OR - a city where I’ve been itching to eat.  -sy

Roman Holiday

Some might say, there’s no place like ROME for the holidays. In no particular order, my top food memories from the last few days...

pancetta al’ aceto. warm bacon slabs flooded with vinegar, olive oil, pepper. pictured left, at Borgo Antico - a Slow Food wine bar near the Vatican. mostly cold salumi plates on the blackboard menu, but also some hot dishes like zuppa di farro ed orzo (farro-barley vegetable soup.) farro is a grain i’ve seen all over Italy.  it’s called emmer in the US and is one of the most ancient varieties of wheat.

roasted chestnuts twisted into a paper cone from a street vendor.  pictured right, on the south side of Piazza Navona.

aqua frizzante.  my new favorite: Guadianello from natural springs on the slopes of the extinct volcano Vulture in southern Basilicata.

brutti ma buoni (“ugly but good” cookies) at a pastry shop round the corner from the Pantheon. toasted almond-egg white-cinnamon mounds.

salted caramels, THE highlight from S.A.I.D. chocolate, a short walk to San Lorenzo from the Rome train station.  originally opened in 1923 and, pictured left,the shop looks straight out of SoHo – attached to its own chocolate factory.  long wood tables display pretty chocolate blocks, flavored bars wrapped in lace and terroir bars tied up with ribbons around tissue paper. glass jars filled with fig candy, wooden bins of hazelnut gianduia, a praline counter, and antique chocolate-making tools all the way to the café/restaurant in the back. the chocolate bar I’m taking back to Boston with me? dark, 70% made with Himalayan crystal salt.

-sy

Into The Woods

Pictured left, chestnuts hiding in their spiked cupule.

My last WWOOF stay at a Livorno forest garden sounded like a fairytale from the description. It was, indeed – a wild space where all the fruit and nut trees make an immediate picnic and you can nap under a twisting kiwi plant with a fish pond at your feet. More than an enchanting retreat, though, multistrata systems like these might be the future in a world wading deeper into global warming and hunger. Super efficient, they produce a great deal of food in an impressively small space, with very little human input.  How? Shade, for starters. With a hedge on all sides, the microclimate within is created by canopy layers of trees, shrubs, climbers, vines, ground cover and creepers. 

From what I’ve seen, food forests offer a lot to believe in: biodiversity, increased CO2, low maintenance, abundance of edible plants, limited digging, cool temperatures. The rewards are more than already mentioned: seeds, herbs, spices, mushrooms, fuel wood, canes, tying materials, medicinal plants and honey.  And woodlands encourage imagination; the example I visited plans to construct a straw bale house in a center clearing!

I’ve seen companion crops before - two-story systems with rosemary in strawberry patches and peppers between cornstalks. But never before had I heard of a forest garden. Well, the idea turns out not to be new at all. Agroforestry has deep roots in tropical Africa and Asia, even temperate climates in China.  But it only came to Great Britain some 40 years ago, thanks to an experimental man named Robert Hart.  Even today, there are only three examples in Italy. I have no idea about American projects, but I’m so taken by the idea that I might just build one myself. Couldn’t we all use “a shelter and shade from the heat of the day, and a refuge and hiding place from the storm and rain”? I happened upon that Canopy description in Isaiah, the same exact day I first set foot in one! -sy

Savor The Day

My mother’s prized pecan pie, pictured left, is just one of the tastes I look forward to at Thanksgiving.  For me, this holiday is more than a meal.  The Yates family heads through southern York County for a slow day where we enjoy each other’s company deep in the Pennsylvania woods.  Tucked into a cabin with no electricity, we rely on the fireplace to warm all of the food prepared before the journey through farmland.  It's fun to bake potatoes in the ancient fireplace, shoot clay pigeons, fly fish in the stream and take a hike after the great meal.  This year a handful of us extended the celebration by heading down to Chincoteague, Virginia for the holiday weekend.  We’re going to make a second Thanksgiving meal tonight, this one with Southern flare.  Stay tuned for deep fried turkey tips, cornbread stuffing ideas and sweet potato pie pictures.  CY

Thanks

Pictured left, Spannocchia’s own Cinta Senese spalla, prized for its exceptional marbling and rich flavor from an acorn diet. 

Thanksgiving is THE family tradition I most look forward to:  the clay pigeon shooting contest, turkey and sweet potatoes by the cabin campfire, and a slow post-turkey stroll through the forest where my grandfather founded a fishing club decades ago.  The woodland location is sweet, and the recipes are worth the yearlong wait.  But it’s the family that brings me home. 

I can close my eyes and see the whole day unfolding, and this year I have to.  So far from the people and traditions I love, I will spend tomorrow making my final animal rounds on a Tuscan farm.  Friday completes my three month internship at Spannocchia , where for twelve weeks I’ve apprenticed with some seriously inspiring people.  I’ve been hiking up Pig Hill and biking to the cow pasture, occasionally leading the sheep to new pasture.  And more often than not, labeling the salumi that I helped butcher, massage, cure and sell at local fairs. 

As we wrap up our fall stay here and prepare the farm for the slip into winter hibernation, I am reassured that new seasons are part of the natural progression.  Among our last few chores is retrieving the grapes that are hanging in the laundry room for pressing and fermenting into sweet vin santo dessert wine.  Yesterday a wild boar showed up to mealtime with the pigs; the day before 39 piglets had their vet visit to determine which should be selected for breeding; and in about an hour we’ll kick off everyone’s favorite - pizza night.  I just got news that we had lamb birth this afternoon, and if we’re lucky, we’ll convince Riccio that tomorrow is the day to purchase 20 baby chicks to bump up our egg production. 

I have a lot to be thankful for, and I hope all my friends and family know how much I love and miss them.  I’ll be traveling around Italy before my return to the States, but when I get back I have a lot to share about my experiences – about my connection to the land and the incredible people I’ve met and the way that I want to grow.  I’m coming back to a country where we lose 140 acres of farmland every four hours, and I intend to skew the statistics. 

Happy Thanksgiving! - sy

Give Me Something Good To Eat

Handmade chocolate truffles and pumpkin sugar cookies are usually frowned upon by trick-or-treaters.  Kids can only take commercial candy that comes safely sealed, and for good reason.  I take this opportunity to step out of the kitchen and enjoy pumpkin carving.  My sister Deb and her husband carved these scary pumpkins to guard their walkway tonight.  For handing out candy, I always wear something food  themed like a life-size s'more outfit or I become human sized piping bag with a "fluted tip" tin foil crown. 
                                                                                 This year I'll dress up as a wounded chef,
wearing my dirtiest chef whites and wrapping a beet stained side
towel around one hand.  Trick or treat, smell my feet, give me something good to eat.  -CY